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October 31, 2005

Things I have been up to....

Watching London Wake Up

From on top of Primrose Hill, just north of Reagent's Park.

Rock Climbing the in Lake District got me up here

How I got back down (partially)

Letting my (British) friends make me a mummy for Halloween

Visiting a Real Mummy

She's only about 4500 years old. Amazing her hair stays blond. It did not have a name on the display, but I would guess Layla.

Sleeping on the Tube

Out with about 30 friends for a dressy night out (as per request of the birthday girl) we were headed to our next destination via the tube for about 10 minute ride. Impressed to see such a comfortable seating arrangement, I decided to take a brief nap. Upon waking up (and realizing much later in the night a friend had taken the picture) a local told me, "You're not the first one to do it." Such a statement could be regarded as form of sympathy, but in this situation, the tone implicated, "You're nothing special--it has been done before." At that moment, for one reason or another, I began to assure the kind woman that indeed I must have been the first to take a nap on the Tube at night. Objecting further to my trivial claim, I again assured her that no one of my body proportions laid in these three seats on this line at this approximate hour for the duration of these exact four stops wearing a blue tie. I further validated my statement with, "I have been in this country two months, and have yet to see anything suggesting the previous existence of a such a happening--I must be the first." And yes, that punch line ended the discussion.

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October 30, 2005

Sharing Language...

Living in London has been a revealing experience in understanding the power of a common language. I have been experimenting a bit with it, and when I buy something at a store and think the owner may speak Arabic, I'll say thank you in Arabic. The next time I come in (this has happened now at three different places) I am greeted in Arabic, and usually get into a talk on family, life course and food. A couple times, however, I did get a couple looks suggesting the person (not Arabic speaking) was insulted. At that point, I tried to pass of ‘shook-run’ as a cough. I have also started entire conversations on the street with strangers (something no one does here) after hearing their accent give them away as American.

Just this morning I found out one of my building supervisors is an Egyptian physician currently doing a Ph.D in London. After hearing him end a phone call in Arabic, I kindly said hello in the same, and we ended up talking for an hour. It turns out he is from a neighbouring town of my father, and knows some Egyptians in Cleveland. I now am much more informed about some local ‘politics’, as well as places to find Egyptian food. Perhaps this will be my window to finally getting my internet fixed! [I’m writing from the library again.]

I am reading in anthropology about nationalism and identity, and focusing on some post World War II initiatives of ‘guest workers’ which placed many unemployed people in foreign countries to boost the war-devastated economies. One narrative, which I watched on film, was of an Italian man who just moved to Switzerland as a waiter. In one scene, he walks through the streets to listen for someone having a similar accent. Initially, it seemed rather odd, and even absurd at points. Afterwards, however, I realized how much I have already done that here with both Arabic and ‘American’ English.

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October 28, 2005

'Anthropology', the 'Borderlands' and Service

[Warning: Thicker, making less sense, content than usual.]


To survive in the Borderlands
you must live sin fronteras

Gloria Anzaldua, Latin Poet Warrior


There is a danger common of anthropologists (sometimes in their written work, others times just in their daily discourse) of 'false clarity.' After immersing themselves in a 'different culture' (sometimes only through reading, or perhaps through 'participant-observation'), many tend to see themselves as a unique bridge of the two. Not only a bridge, but a mediator that (mystically) transcended normal barriers, giving a 'neutral' position to make commentaries from. Such an idealised position is an illusion of course, a mirage of sorts, but I am finding many take refuge (away from their present and past) in the view.

For fear of doing it (again) myself, I will take from the casual analysis of an anthropology professor (another [anthropological] trick--'denying authorship' by borrowing from someone else) to expose a contrasting element of life here.

Growing up in America for 30 years, and having taught in the UK for nearly 20, my professor offered this distinction of the two: 'Amongst the greatest differences I have found are attitudes toward service. It is far less of a priority in England. Indeed the slogan 'The customer is always right' does not exists here.'

Having been here two months now, I am beginning to realize where she might have gotten that impression from…

Three weeks ago I put in a service request to have the internet connection in my hall of residence room fixed. Receiving no response, a week after, I put in another request. A week ago, I phoned a man who told me he was ‘right on it.' And today, still having no internet connection working in my room, I phoned suggesting that this service was 'ridiculous.' The call (and my frustrated, American conditioned to be spoiled, ego) has moved me even further down the queue of service requests to be attended to. I will not have anyone looking at my room before the middle of next week--four weeks since I first put in a request. I should stop comparing, but at Case—I do not think someone goes more then 10 minutes without the internet before all hell breaks lose.

Perhaps I did it—reificated someone’s perspective to give a (seemingly) more valid (without ‘fronteras’) version of my own opinion.

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October 21, 2005

Hair Cuts and Heavy Pockets

I should have Lake District pictures up by now (and Oxford ones by Sunday), but the internet in my room went down, and its taken over a week to have someone here look it. Until then, I will not be able to post pictures.

It is the little things that remind me I am in a new place for a long time, like finding a place to get my hair cut. Today I did at 'Gino's Gents' which sounded a bit dodgy, but not nearly as much as '£6 Toppers' The cut was quite good, and the stylist took it quite personal. Spending nearly 40 minutes, she used only a comb and blade. Dare I say it, the best (and most expensive, about $22) hair cut I have ever gotten. Though this did not happen until my 6th week of being in London, there are some daily reminders of being away from the States, like how heavy my pockets have gotten...

Unlike at Case, where I carried around one ID card (which gave me building access, library access, food access, and money credit), one key, and a money card (which some of you may affectionately remember I kept in an old Orbit gum box taped over), I have a bit more to worry about here. In my pockets:

1)Money (folded over three times because the bills are so big, and I refuse to carry a larger wallet)

2) Change (something I never did in the States, but have to here because the smallest paper bill here is £5, ~$10)

3)Student ID Card (which doubles as a library card)

4)Department Vertication Card (which makes the Student ID card valid)

5)Library Services Card (allows you to make copies in the library; much needed since no here really buys their books)

6)Money Card (its how you get the best exchange here--currently at a low of $1.75 for ever £1!)

7)Medical Insurance Card (not entirely needed because I am covered by free health care here--but if it were an emergency and I needed to be life lighted to the States, I need that card)

8) Yellow Card (gets you 50p off pints at many pubs)

9) A Green meal card (so I can eat in the dinning hall)

10) A yellow emergency numbers card (namely to contact the US embassy)

11) An Ohio Drivers Licence (because its the only way I can verify my age here)

12) An Oyster Card (allows for public transport on the bus and tube)

13) ISIC Card (which qualifies me for student discounts for traveling and eating out)

14) a key to get into my hall of residence

15) a key to get into my room

16) a key to get into my desk drawer

17) a key to get into my closet

These last two may seem odd-but my room gets cleaned weekly, and trashed empited daily, so it can be necessary (I have been told, anyway) to lock away some things while out.

Despite these reminders of a new lifestyle I am (slowly) taknig on, last night had a brief moment of nostalgia. I ate an authetnically Mediterran meal of rice and meat in peas and tomato sauce (Roze wah Basilla, in Arabic), and made some Arabic speaking friends.


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October 13, 2005

Working within the System...

I currently live in a country that tries to make you accept long queues, eat smalller portions, wear smaller clothing, and make, what I think unnecesary, efforts to find required readings. I have, at least in part, solved these daily troubles.

I have made enough friends around campus, that when I go to the computer cluster (something like Nord), I can just use their computer instead of waiting in the queue for one.

On my way to class--taking a less popular, but equally fast route--I have found a small sandwhich shop that makes portions large enough that feel almost American. Today, I actually had to use two hands to eat my lunch--it felt good.

Unlike the States where I need a small, thats needs to be shrunk to fit me, I wear a medium here! In fact, I think I could get away with a large if I wanted.

And for readings--ask and you shall receive. Explaining to one professor my frustrations of searching in a library for five books that nearly 50 students need, and have checked out for the next two months, he kidnly copied the applicable pages of the book for me, and left it outside his office.

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October 12, 2005

Courses...

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Ceiling above the main entrance to the library at UCL. It's cropped this way because if you stand where I was, that is about all one can 'capture' sanely with their eyes.

Half way through October now and most of my friends in the States are preparing for Midterms, while I just finalized (a few hours ago) my course schedule for the first term:

Political and Economic Anthropology - Topics are expansive ranging from social contracts and gift giving, to power and gender issues within households, and global politilcs including Bosnia, Turkey and the Middle East. Current lectures are focusing on "formalisation of speech" and the coercive power such a style can have, and how it can strategically be used within political settings.

Colonial and Postcolonial Visual Culture- The power of imagery, and its role in telling history. Images (even photos) are created rather then "taken", and therefore are subject to the agenda of the creator and the audience. One contested area I am begining to read about concerns religious imagery, and its (ab)uses in "conversions."

Nationalism, 'Ethnicity' and 'Race' - Loaded terms most people (including Anthropologist) cannot really describe accurately without exceptions. How humans fill (with choice, kind of) a seemingly universal need for idenity and community. The manifestation of such can be unifying, isolating, and sheer violent. What are the basises for these decisions? How much agency (ability to decide) do you really have?

Historical Developments of Cities and their Architecture - Core class for students in The Bartlett School Of Architecture(a big deal, I'm told. Not sure how I got in.) Gives an understanding of how to approach buildings, and some insight into the forces that guide how we experience them.

One other item taking my time--I made the UCL Men's Football (soccer) team! The tryouts saw about 250 guys, and sent about 200 away. That said, though I'm playing on one of the lower teams, I'm glad to have a spot.

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October 08, 2005

Local Headline....

guardian20051007.jpg

This was the cover of yesterday's The Guardian--one of London's most popular papers. Many of the other major papers shared similar headlines.

In an interview to be aired over the BBC later this month, the following comments were quoted from Mr Bush:

"God would tell me, George, go and fight those terrorists in Afghanistan. And I did, and then God would tell me, George, go and end the tyranny in Iraq... And I did."

"And now, again, I feel God's words coming to me, Go get the Palestinians their state and get the Israelis their security, and get peace in the Middle East. And by God I'm gonna do it."

Palestinian leader Mahmoud Abbas, who attended the meeting in June 2003 too, also appears on the documentary series to recount how Mr Bush told him: "I have a moral and religious obligation. So I will get you a Palestinian state."


You can read more about it, and/or watch it in a couple days.

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October 07, 2005

End of Week Three...

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Some famous buildings there; amongst them is St. Paul's Cathedral.


It is the end of my third week in London, and it has been busy the say the least.

I recently tried out for the UCL Football (soccer) club. For those of you who know what this means, the first 50/50 I went in for, I got a two foot slide tackle (with metal spikes, no less) that sent me into the next training pitch. The same guy, however, did buy me a pint later that night, as a way of welcoming me to UK football. About 250 guys turned out to compete for 40-50 spots on one of UCL's seven teams. Rosters will be posted tomorrow--though the pain and soreness from tryouts (two days ago) should last much longer.

Some things from America I did not expect to be popular here:
Ford automobiles
Kentucky Fried Chicken
Kanye West and Jay-Z
Starbucks- I saw three within a five minute walk

Some things I miss:
Chipotle, or other meals that leave you full for more than an hour.

MBar giving a "high five" (which one really does here, by the way) that nealy takes your arm off.

Three hour dinners at Leautner full of ego-sooths and general social commentary.

Being able to find books! Most students here do not buy books (since most courses cover about 30 or so texts) so there is this almost ritualized scramble to find the readings in the library, check them out, or reserve for other friends. There is a peculiar network involved in the whole process--one which I am clearly on the outside of.

Hearing sentences that are half English, and half Arabic.

Things people say here I cannot adjust to:
"Cheers" ('Where everybody knows your name?' I always want to ask.)

"Mate" We're not sailing, are we?

"Cheers Mate" Put together, I feel like I am supposed to be hunting crocodiles or something.

"Are you okay?" The English version of "How are you?"/"Whats up?" Each time I hear it, I think I must look stressed, but the asker really is just saying hello.

Professors (as we call them in the states, but a much more reserved and revered title usually only held by the most senior in each department) all seem to go by a first name basis. In fact, some get upset if you keep calling them "Dr. _______."

Things I love here:
A wonderful inattention to most (but not all) of the "racial" and religious barriers I am more accustomed to in the U.S.

Predictable weather: Though not as exciting, knowing it will be about 50 degrees, and cloudy every day makes getting dressed in the morning much easier.

Kebab: I would say (daringly) that the Kebab around the corner from me rivals even some of the best Egyptian Kebab I have had in the US and Egypt.

One last note for this entry; I tried Burger King (when I was hungry and had limited near by options) the other day, and they do it much better here then in the states. Though that Whopper did cost the equivalent of seven US dolllars.

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October 03, 2005

Back from the Country...

family.JPG

My host family. From left to right: myself, Granma Myra, Nick, Brian (also American), Rebecca, Benjamin, Rachel (American) and Bruno (at the farm for a year from Brazil.)

My weekend was full of homecooked meals, sightseeing, and hearing countryside politics. To my surprise/embarassment, most of those I met living out in the country (about four hours from London) were very engaged on world issues. I was caught offguard when asked on some current topics I had no idea about, including ones concerning the United States! I only for a moment thought (and feared) how rural(or any part for that matter) America might hold up in a similar conversation.

Something I am more proud of (I think) was successfully chewing and swallowing, somehow, black puudding; a stuffing like consistency made of pig's blood and fat.

Sun Rise

Up early at the farm. About half-six in the morning.

Ride Around the Farm

Having never seen a farm before, we decided to go for a ride around the 200 acres in the back of a Land Rover. Benjamin, our fearless leader, often taunted the bulls, but comforted us saying, "Don't worry, they'll eat me first, not you."

Meeting a Cow that is not behind a fence

Face to face with a cow. Let's be certain about one thing--they are not friendly!

Stokesay Castle

Fairly old Mansion/Manor/Castle. About 400 years or so.


Witley Court Fountain

I was told from a lady also taking pictures that this is the largest fountain in Europe after Versaille.


More Fountain

Church at Witley

The church at Witley court.


A peaceful weekend before begining the academic term.

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