Archives for the Month of September 2008 on Marie Lathers's Cameroon Journal
Maman Martine and me, Yaounde
Day of the Termites!
I was going to write last night and upload a photo but we lost electricity, which happens fairly often. It was a good thing we lost it last night, actually, cause it ended a plague of the termites! Apparently when it rains too much, the termites come out of the ground and fly around and go for the lights! At dusk we were suddenly inundated with them, they got into the house no matter what! It was a comical scene trying to get them out of our bedroom: I had a sandal in one hand, a hiking boot in the other, and was splatting them on the walls; Linden was dancing around and screaming in delight; Elvis was picking them up off the bed and . . . eating them? (he says the kids do). When the lights went out they all left. We went to bed early, needless to say, and woke up with wings all around us, sans animal body. Wings in the bed, on the walls, on all the floors and all the dirt roads . . .
Someone has asked if I've been to my department. Actually, I went yesterday to the University of Dschang, about a 45 minute drive from here. This was delayed by the fact that Geraldine got stuck on one of our balconies, the door was jammed shut for some reason, and we had to rescue her.
I will be in both the Departments of African Studies and French, and I will teach a course on African-American film and Literature and the representation of women. Everyone at the university was very nice and I have an office to share. We came at the beginning of September for Linden's school; the university won't start until mid-October, and in fact they say it won't "really" start until early November. So, I have a bit more time for settling in!
i will add a photo of Maman Martine and me this afternoon, electricity willing!
School days part deux
finally got a picture uploaded!! This is of the house in Yaounde, on the side of it. A typical view of outside a Cameroonian house, where some food preparation occurs, laundry, etc.
I had taken lots of photos here in Batula and also in Bafut but lost them!! How can that happen, you ask? Well, if you know me you know that technology melts under my fingertips . . . but will be taking more very soon! At least I got one uploaded!
Here is the entry for today
A few surprises for Linden in school. One day a goat just sauntered in and out. The school rooms give out onto a sort of courtyard and the doors of the rooms are always open. So that goat just walked on in. The next day, a rather less charming surprise. The principal walked in and examined the girls. He found two whose belly buttons were showing (they are about 14-15 years old; the ages can range) and they were brought to the front and hit with a “whip,” actually a strip of a piece of a tire. Hit on the side and shoulder, apparently. Linden was upset but not terribly; I’m just glad I had warned her this could happen although Madame Michelle said she never uses it. Who knew that the principal could walk in and do that? It is illegal here but there is still the old school that does it. Speaking of punishing students with a whip, it is amazing how much like the French system the system here is (they don’t whip in France anymore, though, although I know some teachers would like to). I knew that the school system followed the French one, since France made sure its colonies used its education system and books, but it is amazing just how to the letter the system is followed. Some of the books are tailored for Africa, of course, such as the history and geography one, but what I mean is the way the teacher writes on the board, the way the kids spend most of the time copying from the board or reading aloud or listening to the teacher read aloud, the way they have to use pen only, no pencil, and they have to write cursive very neatly, alternating red and blue pens. The red pens are for the “important” words, the blue for the rest. I should mention that Linden was in school in France for the first half of second grade, so this is how I know that the system is the same. They have “cahiers,” notebooks for different subjects which they fill with these notes, which cover the blackboard. They use the old type of wooden benches for desks, with the creased line at the top for setting down pens and chalk. They use an “ardoise,” which means slate, and is the small individual blackboard for each student. In France, they used white board, but here it is still chalk and slate. On the back of the slate is an alphabet in cursive. Luckily, Linden had learned French cursive in 2nd grade so she is having no trouble with that. What else? She is in the rather new building (each of the four buildings has several classrooms), which means there is a cement floor instead of a dirt one. In the morning before the teacher comes (she is always ½ hour late), the kids are supposed to sweep the floors and clean the blackboard. Linden did a lot of the sweeping this morning and really enjoyed it! They us a whisk broom, about two feet long. There is a lot of red/orange dirt and little papers; the students throw what they want on the floor since there is no trashcan (no trash service, either, so the trash goes in piles in certain areas of the neighborhood or is thrown in bushes—admittedly, they create a TON LESS trash than Americans!). The other old-fashioned thing is the blackboard, which was cleaned and painted black (with what?) at the beginning of the year. Usually the boys sweep and clean the blackboard, with a sponge and some water. As for lunch, there is usually a bowl of bananas in the room for the kids, I don’t know how that gets there. The kids bring various items: usually a container with some water, yams, plums (not at all like ours), sugar cane, and/or guavas. Linden usually takes some bread or crackers, a banana or some pineapple. At recess the kids stand around or sit outside and eat, then just run around. There is no play equipment, but then again, in her school in France there was none, just a concrete courtyard. Here there is dirt and grass and goats. Linden did not cry when I left today. I’d like to get to the point where I don’t have to wait with her for the teacher to come; I’m sure that will happen. One young boy, who seems to like her, gave me two plums today. Progress on many fronts! We are going to Yaounde today until Sunday. I need to get money at the Embassy and on Saturday there is an Embassy-sponsored canoe trip that Linden, Elvis, and I are going on. Should be full of mosquitoes and full of fun! Oh, and yesterday they fixed our shower!
School days . . .
Still working on the photo issue! We went to Bamenda for the weekend, in the Anglophone part of Cameroon, only about an hour from here. Elvis and Geraldine are from there and were happy to be home. Geraldine lives in the Gilbert’s in-laws’ compound. His in-laws are John and Regina Angwah, lovely people whom I met in the States and also visited three years ago. There are lots of kids running around and Linden played some with Ambit, who is her age. They are rough for her, though, and I realize that having no siblings she does not really know how to roughhouse or appreciate it!
We went to Bafut on Saturday, a famous chefferie that is not far from Bamenda. Got a good tour of the bamboo palace, compound, and museum, which is in a building built by the Germans. There is a spot for sacrifices and rocks for executions, which interested the girls, of course, and me too. These were stopped with the arrival of the Germans. The Fon (king) of Bafut and his people fought the Germans for 10 years and in the end the Fon was placed in prison for a year. Realizing they couldn’t govern without him, the Germans brought him back and he was won over to their cause through the gifts of a gramophone and lantern. The brief German occupation of Kamerun, as they called it, marked the end of ritual sacrifice and executions, as well as the end of much of the traditions of a people and the deaths of many during the long war; fortunately, Bafut like some other villages and towns has maintained and/or reinvigorated many of its traditions.
Linden is at school and I think getting used to it, although it is very hard for her to let me go in the morning. It bothers her a lot that the kids gather round and stare, so many of them, but she understands why. There is a sweet girl named Delphine who was put next to her by the teacher, Madame Michelle, and that helps a bit. She got three African style t-shirts at the Batoula market on Friday and is very happy wearing them.
Oh, and a kitty. We brought back a very young kitty from Bamenda and that helps quite a lot since Linden just adores cats. He is named Puss-Puss. Cameroonians don’t keep dogs and cats as “pets,” so they are surprised and sometimes frightened by the kitten. Sometimes cats become a meal. Yep. So we need to watch over Puss-Puss! More later . . .
Batoula
So much has happened since our arrival in Batoula on Saturday! Yes, I was hoping to post photos and I have some good ones, but I can’t seem to get them to upload. Will keep trying. Anyway, when we arrived Saturday, after a six-hour car drive, the king met us at the palace (a small one-room mud-brick building) with the elders and some women, two of his wives and Maman Martine. Some children also. He was much more talkative than when I saw him three years ago; he was very happy that I returned and when he found out that Linden would go to the village primary school he was extremely happy. He told her she is his daughter since I am one of the queens. There was dancing and he talked to me about building a bigger palace for the kingdom (chefferie). I reminded him that he asked me about a well for the village last time I was here and told him I was in fact working on that. He was pleased, of course. Oncle Jean, whom I had met last time, was also there and was very kind. The village was in mourning for the brother of Maman Martine who had died, so things were pretty subdued.
We are now living in the “grande maison,” the big rose colored home built by a businessman in Douala who is from the village. It has not really been lived in and is still partly under construction. We don’t have much in the way of furniture and there are problems with the water and electrical outlets, but in general things are quite nice, and the furniture that is in storage is supposed to arrive today. It is the only house in the village with running water (cold only), since it has its own well and filter. We are very fortunate, of course. There are two young men living in a small house in the compound (concession) who take care of the yard and outside the house. They are good about playing soccer with Linden!
We have met many people and were invited into a home as we went for a walk; there was a family celebrating a new baby and then served us a coke. We have met many of the Dohos and their extended families. Linden really is attached to Maman Martine, as I am. We drove her to Bafoussam this morning to take her to the bus back to Yaounde, where she lives with Guy (although Guy is staying here until Friday to make sure we are settled). Linden kept touching her shoulder and trying to make sure she was comfortable. I’ll be excited to upload a picture of the two of them! So, as for Linden’s school. She went with us to Bafoussam cause the teacher (Madame Michelle) didn’t show up. We were there at 7:30, when it was supposed to start, and waited until 9, by which time quite a few students had shown up. They all stood a few feet away and just stared and stared at Linden, who in general was quite content, with a few fears. In any event, Guy came at 9 and said we may as well leave. Things will get rolling, they say, next week.
As for me, I am enjoying just sitting and taking it all in. It is cooler here than in Yaounde and except for the late morning and early afternoon, when the sunny is extremely strong, it is quite comfortable. The evenings are cool for sleeping and there are basically no mosquitoes! We do have to be careful of the sun; Linden burned a shoulder and the tops of her ears pretty badly. In the mid to late afternoon we have wonderful rainfall. Everything is orange, red, and brown here from the mud. It’s like living at the beach and having to accept sand in everything. The bottoms of feet here are usually orange, which reminds me that I wanted to mention what the king said about the gifts I brought from Yaounde. He told the group that I brought rice, knowing it was a favorite of the children; that I brought soaps, so that the women can wash their feet when coming in from the fields; and salt, because I know that salt brings life. That was quite nice, I thought. I can see the need for soap to wash feet!
I need to call Charles Dimi, my contact at the University of Dschang, and hopefully meet with him next week. Classes will start in October. I also heard from a Peace Corps volunteer who lives in Dschang and will try to meet him.
Note from Linden:
Hi cats are the best. Especially KITS and TRAPES.
Sighned LINDEN
Arrival!
Arrived Sunday evening in Yaounde! Embassy person met us at the airport and took us to Gilbert Doho's home in the Mendong neighborhood of Yaounde. It was dark out (sunset at 6pm) so Linden couldn't see much. Lots of warm welcomes at the house, some that we didn't sort out until later. Maman Martine, Gilbert's mother, whom I recognized from the last time I was here and from her trip to the States. Although we don't speak the same language, she only speaks Funda, we have a warm interaction always.
Guy is living in Gilbert's house and is a wonderful friend. He has helped us so much these last few days, most recently helping me get a mobile phone to set up for internet on the computer.
We also met Geraldine who will live with us as a cook/housekeeper, and Elvis, who will live with us as our driver. They are both from the Anglophone part of Cameroon. Both very friendly; turns out that Elvis has never heard of Elvis Presley . . .
Unfortunately, we got terribly ill on Tuesday night after eating fish with a lot of Cameroonian spices. Not sure that was it, but boy did we have an up all night experience. Poor Linden has never been that ill and was in shock, really, as well as having a very high fever. I won't go into the gory details any further. We were in bed all day yesterday and managed to get up at about 9 this morning. Didn't eat all yesterday. Took about three hours before I felt I could walk around well, but Linden was playing soccer with her new ball soon after getting up.
Went to the Embassy BS (Before Sickness) and got debriefed, yep. Today went to the Casino in town, a French grocery store. I wanted to get at least a few familiar things for Linden, some things she has had in France--yogurt, milk, jam, petit ecolier chocolate cookies, Rice Krispies, etc. We'll go a bit bland for a few days!
We are in a neighborhood that is typical, many small homes close together, made of cement or of wood (the poorer ones). Red dirt roads leading all over, up and down the sometimes steep hills. The main roads are paved but with many potholes. Everything has that red dirt tinge to it. And it RAINS every afternoon, bringing on the red mud. Palm trees, small hills outside of town, papaya and prune trees. The red/orange and green together can be lovely. We walk around hearing "les blancs, les blancs" (whites, whites--they think Linden is a boy with her short hair), from the children, who are very interested. Linden has played soccer with a few of the local kids, and learned a few French words.
Maman Martine and the others from the village left on Monday because her youngest brother had died in the village and they went for the funeral. He fell from a basket that was hoisted up so he could pick something from the trees. Very sad. Little Vanessa, his girl, was here as well as a young boy named Ambrosino. The kids are returning here this evening, and we will all go to Batoula on Saturday.
I'll stop now because of thunder and lightening, which made us lose power for a long time the other day. Also, children on the way. I think this will cheer Linden up. The illness and the malaria pills (she hates pills and must take three a day) really got her down. But she's a trooper. I hope to have pictures for the next blog entry, or the one after. Bonsoir to all.